expedition Details
Overview:
Island Peak Climbing with EBC Trek is a perfect blend of trekking and climbing in the Everest region. This trip offers a great peak climbing experience for novice climbers and mountain lovers. Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, rises like a magnificent island of rock and ice, surrounded by glaciers and peaks between 8,000 and 7,000 meters high. Reaching the summit of Island Peak is one of the easiest Climbing peaks in Nepal, at 6,189 meters, involves crossing a glacier and climbing moderate snow and ice.
Trek to the high altitudes of Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar and stand beneath the frozen peak of Everest. Cross the high mountain pass, Kongma La, and arrive at Island Peak Base Camp. Put on your gear and follow your guide to the summit of this beautiful peak. Cross high mountain passes and glaciers to reach Island Peak Base Camp, from where you do your summit. Sufficient acclimatization days will ensure your body adapts well to the rarefied air before the Island Peak Climbing summit ascent. For many of you, this will be a 'first' and thus your most extraordinary peak.
Since your safety is our first priority, we double check all of our climbing equipment and gear that we use for this Island Peak climb. We ensure that safety procedures are in place at the beginning and during the trip. He has climbed many 8,000- and 7,000-meter peaks, including Mount Everest, and has reached the summit of Island Peak several times. To ensure everyone reaches the summit, 1 assistant guide will assist every 2 climbers. Furthermore, during pre-climb training at base camp, you will receive valuable inputs from our experienced guides. This is also a good opportunity to improve your climbing skills. Our guides will help you reach the top and achieve your goal safely. Furthermore, we provide all the climbing gear and equipment you need to climb Island Peak!
Trip Details:
Peak Name: Island Peak (Imja Tse)
Height: 6,189 m / 20,305 ft
Region: Everest (Khumbu)
Grade: Alpine PD+ (Physically demanding, technically moderate)
Best Seasons: Spring: March–May (best snow conditions) Autumn: September–November (stable weather)
Safety & acclimatization:
- Highest elevation is significant — watch for altitude sickness. Take it slow, drink plenty of water, consider an acclimatization day if you feel sluggish.
- Weather can change quickly; warm layers, waterproofs, good boots and sun protection are necessary.
- Mobile coverage is patchy; carry a power bank and let someone know your plan.
- Certified climbing guide essentia
- Basic mountaineering
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Crampon walking
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Ice axe self-arrest (training provided)
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Required Equipment & Personal Gear:
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Down jacket (-20°C)
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Climbing boots (double or insulated)
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Harness, helmet
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Crampons
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Ice axe
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Ascender (Jumar)
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Carabiners
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Trekking poles
(Group equipment like ropes, Harness, helmet, Ice axe, Ascender (Jumar),tents, Crampons, Climbing boots, cooking gear provided by operator)
Physical Fitness Required:
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Good cardiovascular endurance
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Ability to trek 6–8 hrs/day
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Prior high-altitude trekking experience recommended
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Technical experience helpful but not mandatory
Permits Required:
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Sagarmatha National Park Permit
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Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit
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Island Peak Climbing Permit (NMA)
Food & Accommodation:
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Teahouse lodges during trek
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Camping at Base Camp
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High-calorie meals during climb
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Boiled water available (treated)
(Best Tips for success island peak summit)
1, Acclimatization Is the Key to Success:
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Do not rush the itinerary
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(Dingboche + Chhukung nights are critical)
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Follow the rule: climb high, sleep low
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Hike to Nangkartshang Peak (5,083 m) before going to base camp
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Drink 3–4 liters of water daily
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If symptoms appear → descend immediately
Most summit failures happen due to poor acclimatization, not fitness.
2, Choose the Right Season:
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Spring (April–May): More snow, safer glacier, slightly colder
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Autumn (Oct–Nov): Less snow, more exposed ice, clearer weather
Avoid monsoon & mid-winter unless highly experienced.
3, Train Smart (Not Just Hard)
Best training focus (2–3 months before)
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Long hikes with backpack (10–15 kg)
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Stair climbing / hill repeats
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Core & leg strength (squats, lunges)
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Cardio endurance (running, cycling)
Technical skills can be taught on the mountain; endurance cannot.
4, Use Proper Mountaineering Boots:
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Wear insulated climbing boots (Scarpa, La Sportiva, etc.)
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Boots must be crampon-compatible
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Break them in before the trip
Regular trekking boots = frozen feet + failed summit
5, Practice Crampons & Jumar Use
Before summit day, make sure you know:
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Walking in crampons on ice
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Using Jumar (ascender) on fixed rope
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Descending safely with safety rope
Always attend the Base Camp training session seriously.
6, Summit Day Strategy (Very Important)
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Start early (12–2 AM)
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Eat even if you don’t feel hungry
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Move slow and steady (“Nepali pace”)
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Save energy for the final headwall
Mental strength matters more than speed.
7, Manage Cold Properly
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Use layering system (base, mid, down)
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Warm gloves + backup pair
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Chemical hand/foot warmers help
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Keep water bottle insulated
Cold hands are the #1 reason climbers turn back.
8, Trust Your Guide (But Know Your Limits)
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Follow rope instructions exactly
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Communicate early if you feel weak or dizzy
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Turning back is success, not failure
The mountain will always be there.
9, Don’t Skip Insurance:
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Must cover high-altitude climbing + helicopter rescue
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Companies like World Nomads / Global Rescue
Rescue from Island Peak can cost USD 5,000–10,000 without insurance.
10, Add a Backup Day:
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Weather changes fast above 6,000 m
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A spare day dramatically increases success rate
BONUS PRO TIPS:
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Drink hot garlic soup in Dingboche (helps circulation)
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Keep summit backpack under 5 kg
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Change socks at High Camp/Base Camp
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Tape hot-spot areas before summit day
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Use sun protection even at night (snow reflection)
Ideal Candidate for Island Peak
Completed Everest Base Camp or similar trek
Comfortable walking 6–8 hrs/day
Willing to listen to guides
Strong mindset, not ego-driven
